We are all in need of answered prayer these days (well, every day) but you get my drift. With all the lockdowns, shutdowns, and negative news, some good cheer needs to be spread. It is a challenge to know what to write these days. Some travel writers and bloggers are not writing because of travel restrictions. Some travel writers have chosen to keep creating—I am one of them.
Even though our freedoms are limited right now, it does not mean we cannot dream. It does not mean we cannot share our past travel experiences. We need to celebrate what we have learned through travel. People will travel again, whether it be close to home, within their own state or province, or within their country for the near foreseeable future. These people are looking to build memories now more than ever. To catch up on stolen time. Humanity has finally realized how precious life is.
I have prayers. Prayers God answers with, “Yes.” “No.” “Wait.” My prayer right now is for people to be able to enjoy the liberty to explore this world again. Through this crucible we’ve all endured together, the world of travel will be recreated to be a better experience for all. For people to learn to go beyond what their idea of a vacation is to have a truly cultural experience in the communities or parks they visit. To find little treasures in creation and connect with the souls residing there. One such place where we found a special connection was in Kerrville, the “Capital of Texas Hill Country”.
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The Coming King Sculpture Prayer Garden, 520 Benson Drive
Located high up on a hill and at the same latitude as Israel, overlooking Kerrville is The Coming King Sculpture Prayer Garden. The symbolic Resurrection cross dominating the garden is the focal point at the top of the hill. The Cor-ten steel sculpture stands 77’7” tall on a 1930’ hill above IH-10—it’s pretty hard to miss. This non-denominational, spiritual garden allows people to explore different stories from the Bible with sculptures depicting different scenes.
The Prayer Path and God’s Rock Garden are touching areas of the grounds where scriptures can be found along the trail surrounding the cross-shaped garden. The path is also lined with limestone prayer rocks inscribed by visitors. Intimately placed, their hopes, dreams, and fears forever etched in stone and laid at the feet of God. If you wish to leave a prayer rock, sharpie markers are on-site in weather-resistant boxes to write your inscription on a rock to place alongside the others.
If you are in Kerrville in the spring, there is an annual Easter service (Son Rise) attracting over 3,000 people, with 10% of those visitors being from out of state. The service is from 7:30 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. on Easter Sunday.
Riverside Nature Center, 150 Francisco Lemos Street
We visited Kerrville in August, which is not the best time to visit Riverside Nature Center. The native plants go dormant in the hot summer to survive the scorching Texas heat. All the plants and wildlife at the center are native to Texas. It is the largest collection of Hill Country native plants attracting countless birds and butterflies. This made for a quick visit as the area was small (2 acres), and once again, quiet and still.
During the spring and fall season, expect to see wildflowers, birds, and butterflies in the garden. Riverside Nature Center is a certified Monarch Waystation. The center also acts as a trailhead for the 5-mile (8 km) long picturesque Kerrville River Trail.
The mission of Riverside Nature Center is “to develop public awareness and stewardship of the Texas Hill Country’s environmental and natural resources through education, information, and example.” Allow one hour to visit in the blooming season. Admission is free.
Kerrville River Trail
A man sat playing his violin in the park alongside the river. Ever so slowly, he glided the bow across the strings. The music floating over the grass and river in a melancholy tune. A congregation of ducks nearby were enjoying the concert—then they spotted us. The charming scene was shattered. Waddling and quacking as fast as their stubby little legs would carry them, they charged us hoping we had a treat for their efforts. Once they got close enough and realized we had no delicacies, they squawked angrily, telling me which direction to go and how fast to get there. Their shrill voices cutting sharply through the lone violinist and his sweet song. Irritated with yours truly, the family of ducks waddled their way to the serene river in search of other sources of nourishment.
Where to Stay in Kerrville
Historic Downtown Kerrville
Shopping in small-town Texas is a treat. From jewellers, to bohemian clothing, to unique gifts, to antiques; Kerrville is a shopper’s delight offering the perfect blend of shopping, history, dining, drink, and architecture. Downtown Kerrville is a great destination for a day, an evening, or a weekend.
Kerrville is not short on distinctly Texan historic buildings. The Guthrie Building has been in continuous use since 1887 and is one of the oldest structures in Kerr County. The main floor was an office for the newspaper and the top floor was the Guthrie Hotel. The walls are 15-inch thick limestone from a quarry east of Kerrville. Finishing of the stone building cost $2,600 back in the day.
Small-town Travel Tip: There is free all-day parking in the Central Historic Downtown Parkade. The streets and other parking lots in Kerrville have a limit of 2-3 hours in their stalls. Park in the parkade and explore Kerrville on foot.
Schreiner Mansion Historic Site, 226 Earl Garrett
Built in 1897, the Schreiner Mansion tells a story spanning three centuries of architecture and history. Captain Charles Schreiner commissioned the renowned San Antonio architect, Alfred Giles, to design the mansion. The house was constructed by expert German masons. One of the oldest surviving homes in Kerr County, the beauty and charm of this unique home will captivate you. This previous home to the wealthy merchant is on the National Register of Historic Places and is a significant site in the Texas Hill Country area.
45-minute tours of the first floor are conducted by knowledgeable guides. General admission is $7 and children under the age of eight are free. Tours begin on the half-hour.
Stonehenge II
Stonehenge II was erected as a fun art project by the late Al Shepperd and his friend and neighbour, Doug Hill in the middle of Shepperd’s pasture. The replica of the famous monument in England is 90% as wide and 60% the height of the original. Stonehenge II is a fun and unique activity for a change of pace to shopping and river-strolling.
Beware the tiny red fire ants fiercely biting your toes and ankles when you stop for pictures. These little beasties can be found in many Texas parks and if you do not keep moving, they will feast on your flesh leaving tiny, itchy, burning blisters. Some people have more severe reactions than others. Me? My skin is sensitive, especially to bug bites—instant Mount St. Helen’s eruptions on my tootsies.
Shepperd added two 13-feet tall Easter Island heads (moai) a year and a half later. The heads stand a respectful distance on either side of Stonehenge II.
The property is free and open to the public to visit 365 days a year. Located at the Hill Country Arts Foundation, you may be fortunate to take in a live concert, play, or event during your visit.
How do you get there? Turn West onto Highway 27 at the intersection of Highway 16 and Highway 27. Go 6 miles (10 km) toward Ingram. At Y in Ingram, continue to go straight, which will put you onto Highway 39. Go about ½ mile (0.8 km) on the left. You can’t miss it.
Where to Stop and Power-Up in Between Attractions
Grape Juice, 623 Water Street
If you like to experience refreshments of a different sort, Grape Juice is the place for you. This fabulous wine bar serves fun foods with a twist. Supplying excellent local craft beer, the eclectic atmosphere is worth the stop alone.
Of course, we ordered a flight, as we always do when visiting a new place. It is the best way to try a variety of local craft beers. Order a 4×4 (4 oz tasters of 4 beers on tap for $12). Our favourites were the boozy Oak Highland Freaky Deaky Belgian Tripel from Dallas, Texas with 10% ABV. Southern Star’s Buried Hatchet Imperial Stout from Conroe, Texas was also excellent with a taste of creamy toffee and roasted malt and a delightful 8.25% ABV.
Billy Gene’s Restaurant, 1489 Junction Highway
We asked our Texan friends who frequent Kerrville where a great place to eat would be. Their answer, “I don’t know, we always look for a place with lots of cars out front.” So, we took their advice and stopped at Billy Gene’s for dinner after our day of exploration.
Enjoy Hill Country cuisine from their lovely patio overlooking the Guadalupe River—a perfect place to enjoy Texas Hill Country ambiance—if it’s not too hot outside. The prices were excellent, the food was good, and the service friendly. Where else can you get a 4 oz. steak dinner with two sides for $10.79? Just the perfect size for a person of my stature. Recommendation: the onion rings. They are hand-battered, crisp, and fresh.
Billy Gene’s was voted the “Best all Around Food” 13 years in a row, “Best Chicken Fried Steak” 12 years in a row, “Best Home Cooking” 2 years in a row and “Best Restaurant for Friendly Service” in 2018.
Three Scenic Drives in Texas Hill Country near Kerrville
In the spring and early summer, Texas is an array of wildflowers with over 300 species to enjoy. According to the Texas Department of Transportation’s website, the organization disperses 30,000 pounds of wildflower seeds along Texas highways each year as part of the state’s vegetation management program. Scenic drives through Hill Country will give you a chance to spot the wildflowers. The drives through Hill Country in spring are glorious.
West Kerr and Bandera Counties
(133-mile drive or 214 km) is rated as one of the most scenic drives in the state. Amongst the stunning array of flowers, you will experience scenic vistas with native flowers, trees, cacti, plants, and shrubs.
Follow Texas 16 south to Medina for 24 miles (39 km), then turn right on FM 337 to Vanderpool for 19 miles (31 km). Go north on Texas 187 to Texas 39 for 19 miles (31 km), then turn right and follow Texas 39 to Hunt for 17 miles (27 km). Turn left onto FM 1340 in Hunt to the intersection of FM 1340 and Texas 41 for 21 miles (34 km), then turn right onto Texas 41 to Mountain Home for 15 miles (24 km). Turn right on Texas 27 and follow through Ingram and back to Kerrville for 18 miles (29 km).
The Kerrville-Harper-Fredericksburg Trail
From IH-10 in Kerrville, take Texas 783 to Harper for 18 miles (29 km). Continue north through Harper until intersecting with Texas 290, then turn right. Continue travelling on Texas 290 through Fredericksburg until intersecting with Texas 16, then turn right and head back to Kerrville.
Lower Turtle Creek Road to Texas 173
Heading south on Texas 16 toward Medina, take a left turn onto Lower Turtle Creek Road, or FM 2771, which will yield miles of colour on both sides of the curving road. When you reach Texas 173, head south toward Bandera for more buds and blooms. (All driving directions courtesy of Kerrville Area Visitors’ Guide.)
Visit texas.wildflowersightings.org for more details on scenic drives in the Texas Hill Country.
A Prayer for Safe Travels Again
In Kerrville, we found warm, Texas hospitality from strangers on the street. We found serenity in a prayer garden high above the town. We found a place where we could wander the streets safely and get lost in the private opus of a single violin player and a family of ducks who were also out to enjoy the day. My hope through sharing our story of discovering this small-Texas town will encourage you to do the same once travel restrictions have been removed. We must continue to move forward and remove the fetter of fear. Through solidarity and trust, we can rebuild the travel industry and make positive change across the world again.
All pictures in this post are taken by Charlotte, yours truly, as always, unless otherwise stated.
Roam Free is a deeply personal and often hilarious travel memoir that pulls you in to the wild and woolly ride of my epic travel adventures. If you loved Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence, you’ll delight in Roam Free’s sweetly innocent deep dive into a life of untethered long-term travel. Get your copy on Amazon and become inspired today.
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